Roy Schofield

Saturday 16/June/2018

I awoke a little before 05:00, showered and finished getting ready for the day. My taxi arrived at 05:30 and soon I was on my way to the airport – which was around 50 minutes drive. When I arrived at the small airport there were few people there and most of them were checking in for a domestic flight – whilst I was told to wait a short while until they opened my flight for checking in. So while I waited I had breakfast – well, coffee – and after this I noticed they had changed the checking in sign (done by sliding the place name in a slot!) to Funafuti. 

I joined the very short queue and was called forward immediately to the second desk. I soon checked in, got the window seat I wanted and with boarding card in hand looked at it with a big grin on my face. Yes… I was really going to Tuvalu.

[Comment: I had known for some years that eventually I would hope to visit the South Pacific islands. As I was looking at my options and countries to visit I realised that there was a country I didn’t think I’d even heard of – Tuvalu. Researching into it, it was a full member of the United Nations and therefore was classed as country. Looking further into visiting, I read reports that there were nine atolls/islands that had a total population of around 10,000 – one of the smallest for a UN country. There had been only two flights each week (from Fiji) but this had recently been increased to three. Some reports reckoned less than 1,000 tourists visited in a year – but one report reckoned as many as 2,000 :-). The highest elevation was less than 5 metres above sea level – and therefore with global warming there were real fears that the country could disappear in time. Reports said that whilst it may have internet connection at times – rarely could its use be acceptable.
Basically, it sounded just the type of place I love to visit – very different, few tourists – but attractive to me (as North Korea was – but for different reasons). Getting there was not cheap neither – with the return fare from Fiji being a little more than I would expect to pay for a return flight from the UK to Cambodia – for a flight that was around two and half hours between Fiji and Tuvalu. This flight had also been the first flight I had booked for this trip – with the remaining itinerary fitting around it]

Whilst I had my boarding card, I was still too early to pass through security and passport control – as they only opened around an hour before the flight. I spent the time walking around the small car park in the early morning sun – with thoughts of how it would be in Tuvalu. Eventually when security etc opened, I soon passed through and awaited my flight in the small departure area. When told we could board, I was soon through the door and walking across the tarmac towards the plane.

I had a window seat on the side of the plane someone had advised me to sit at. Although the plane wasn’t full – having around 80 seats – there were still some empty seats, and as expected most passengers appeared to be local (either from Fiji or Tuvalu) with less than ten appearing to be westerners – and several of those clearly appeared to be working there.

The flight departed around 09:00 as scheduled, we left Fiji behind, and for the next couple of hours there was just sea and small fluffy clouds to look at. Once the crew announced we should prepare for landing, I’m sure a bigger smile sat happily on my face. I stared out of the window looking for that first glimpse of Tuvalu and as we descended much lower, the southern end of it came into view – looking just like the images on Google

As we began to touch the tarmac, many locals could be seen in various vantage points down the sides of the airfield – as though to be welcoming the plane. The plane manoeuvred to the very small terminal building and we were allowed to disembark. Baggage was brought to the terminal on a motor pulled trolley – as usual – but the was no baggage carousel, just airport workers who manually unloaded the bags and placed them on the floor to be collected. We then had to proceed through customs – who asked a few questions. I showed my certificate for my wooden carving and was soon quickly through – where my passport was then stamped. I was officially in Tuvalu

I had booked the only accommodation I could find where I could book through the internet (via an agent) and so once moving outside, I looked at the group of people surrounding the area waiting for friends and relatives – and found my host holding a small board with the accommodation name. I introduced myself to them – as did another young man. We were then escorted to the vehicle to take us the short distance to the lodge. On the way, the young man and I introduced ourselves. His name was David and he was there for tourism too and it was apparent that we both had a similar interest and love of travel.

After a few minutes we reached the lodge and were shown to our rooms. I was soon getting my camera and heading out into the streets. The place was very lush – with greenery and palm trees everywhere. The standard of the locals houses varied considerably but at best were generally very sparse and basic but sometimes their houses were makeshift shacks made of anything they could get their hands on. However, the one huge positive that was immediately noticeable was the friendliness of the people . Many people I saw or passed greeted me warmly. Children waved and often spoke too.

I walked around the centre – and found a ‘restaurant’ that was Chinese… but was open until 10pm. There were a number of small local stores scattered along the ‘main’ roads – maybe a better description was large wooden huts with a serving hatch – or in some cases they were mini supermarkets – and some of them stored and crammed everything you could imagine into the small spaces!

I was keen to see the both sides of the slim slip of land – which wasn’t difficult as even at its widest part, the distance from the lagoon side to the Pacific Ocean side could be walked in minutes.

I knew that there wouldn’t be too much to do on Tuvalu – and Trip Advisor showed only four things with the top attraction being a collection of stamps issued by Tuvalu Post Office over the years – but I was looking forward to walking to the extremes in both directions and also enjoying the peace and tranquility that would surely be part of the experience of visiting Tuvalu.

I returned to the Lodge for a while to rest and get organised – but spent a little time talking to David about travelling before heading out into the evening. I was aware that maybe I should stick to the two main roads – as it was difficult enough to navigate in daylight but at night it became more hard with little lighting. Most places closed by mid evening at the latest and so I resorted to eating in the Chinese ‘restaurant’ I had found – and good it was too – before heading to my bed for the night – a happy traveller!

Sunday 17/June/2018

As breakfast was between 07:00 and 08:00 I arose early and prepared myself. Entering the lounge/dining area I was met with David and another couple from Australia – the man working there whilst his wife was visiting. We ate breakfast and chatted – bu David and I continued talking about ourselves and our travels until around 09:30.

Basically, David was born in China but his parents moved the family to Canada when he was very young – but the two things he now treasured were his Canadian passport and command of English Language – both of which had been invaluable on his freedom to travel. He was a young man who had decided to work hard, save his money, and have the freedom to travel for some time – and he had a huge passion for boxing, often watching it in various parts of the world. It soon became apparent that we had many similarities – both in our passion for travel and our philosophies/views on life.

My plan for the day was to walk to the northern tip of the area but as I left the lodge, I noticed many people either walking or on their mopeds smartly dressed. I had noticed lots of churches and the bells had been calling them to the morning services. Hymns could often be heard in the background – whether from nearby churches or radio stations.

The bells at a local church were ringing and I headed towards it. There was singing from inside and the congregation were still arriving – the ladies and girls very smart in dresses whilst many men and boys were in shirts and ties – and many men wearing their traditional dress as they normally did.

I stood outside peering in when a young teenage boy approached me and told me it was okay for me to go in. Whilst I felt out of place – a white tourist in shorts and t-shirt – I took his advice and entered in to the back few rows of pews. It had a special feeling, a loving close community coming together to worship – and I was welcomed into it. The choir sang and the sound fitted in with the beautiful tropical surroundings. The service wasn’t in English and so after a while I discreetly slid out of the back door – but very grateful for the experience.

I then decided to progress my walk to the end of the peninsula. At first I was in familiar streets but these gradually petered out to one road along the centre of the land. I passed the port area of the island where several boats where moored – maybe with cargo for the island. Continuing along the road, local houses used the area between the road and the seas and I was so often greeted as I slowly walked along. 

Many times locals would wave and greet me – and we would chat for a few minutes. They all showed a warmth that I couldn’t recall experiencing anywhere else in the world. The strip of land was getting narrower and narrower – and eventually was only 200-300 metres wide – with the road still progressing.

After around 90 minutes since leaving the church, I came to an end I wasn’t expecting. Sadly, the tip of the land in this direction appeared to be blocked off and was used as the refuse dump for the island. I looked at walking round it down by the sea – but the rocks would have been difficult to negotiate – and I wasn’t sure if I would be trespassing. So very disappointed and reluctantly I decided I would start my walk back – something I knew was going to be more difficult than when walking to this area – as the sun and heat levels were continuing to increase and I had not seen anywhere I could purchase a drink since leaving town.

There were a couple of young men on mopeds there who greeted me. We chatted a few minutes and they offered me a lift on their bikes – which in the circumstances I gratefully accepted – and so we headed back for town. I had noticed that the people are so laid back and cautious and the traffic tended o move along at around 15mph and so I felt safe accepting the lift.

Around 15 minutes later, I was dropped off on the edge of town, thanked my driver and proceeded for a cold bottle of water (non-sugar soft drinks having not reached this part of the world yet). I decided to walk a little more around town – and headed for the airstrip – where the runway was used by locals for playing football, walking along, sitting on – even picnicking Mopeds crossed it or drove on it where they wanted – there was no fence or restriction, it was like an elongated park with lot of grassland but a large strip of tarmac down the centre.

After I while I decided a proper rest was in order – and so after changing and collecting my beach towel, I headed for the local beach – which apart from a few children playing and swimming was almost deserted. I spread my towel and enjoyed the sun and tranquility for a while, reflecting on this unusual island.

As late afternoon approached I bought more drinks and returned to my room to shower and change for the evening – knowing I would have to eat much earlier than usual due to the sleepy and relaxed ambience around the island – and so I did. However on returning mid evening I spent a good while swapping travel stories and tales with David and we both enjoyed many laughs listening to each others experiences. A good way to end another good day.

Monday 18/June/2018

As the previous day, I awoke bright and early – after a good nights sleep – probably I was so relaxed and laid back – as the locals The conversation over breakfast was about travel – of course – but my intentions were that after breakfast, I would walk in the opposite direction from the previous day – the the southern most point.

However, over breakfast, David mentioned that he was desperately keen to try to find a fridge magnet. I laughed and told him I had given up on that idea but that I had already found a nice shell on the beach and would probably end up sticking a magnet to it somehow. We both wanted a souvenir too – which was looking to be equally as difficult to find as a fridge magnet. We decided to ask the owner of the lodge and she and her daughter thought they probably knew several options.

We jumped in their car and headed down the road before stopping at a small building. Here a man was working on a piece of wood. The ladies asked if there was something he could quickly and cheaply produce for us – but sadly he was unable to help as he had work to do already and we required it within 24 hours. We were like two men on a mission in the back of the car – with our local helpers doing all they could. It confirmed what I already knew… I was in a country that was so different from any other country I had visited

We then went to a house towards the southern peninsula – where I was planning to walk to. Sadly, although the lady did some craft work, she too was unable to help. We then went to a local ”shop’ near the centre of town – which was closed – but an adjacent store invited us to look around. Suddenly I saw something that if I would accept if I could find nothing else. The lady had a number of ‘bracelets’ – or maybe napkin holders (wasn’t quite sure what they were) and they were bright colours with ‘Tuvalu’ painted on them – and apparently made out of the inner shell of a coconut – a couple of souvenirs I already had at home being coconut shell.

I bought two of them – a blue one and a yellow one! Although it maybe wasn’t ideal – it was better than nothing – although David was still searching. I looked at t-shirts in a store but there was nothing depicting Tuvalu. However, the daughter asked if was interested in a t-shirt and she had two back at the lodge – with a few other small items. On our return to the lodge, she showed me the t-shirt – and although I have half wardrobe full from various countries that I bought some years ago, I decided it was an opportunity I couldn’t miss – and luckily it fit me!

I was relatively happy, I had expected it to be difficult to find something – but as there appeared to be no manufacturing as such on Tuvalu, it was a case of getting anything that would remind me of the place.

So, mid morning, I finally set off on my work – feeling somewhat happier that now I had a couple of momentoes to take home. The walk to the southern end of the island was even more enjoyable than the walk the previous day – passing many local homes and families – and so many of them greeting me as I walked along too. After approaching an hour since leaving the lodge, the southern tip wasn’t too far away and the roadway ended – leaving just a track through the narrow (less than 50 metres) strip. Within minutes I came out of the pathway that had been through shrubbery and was at the end.

I stood and looked in awe. Apart from the strip of land that headed back to the centre behind me , all I could see was crystal clear and blue waters with another small island in front of me and a few island in the very distance. To finish the perfect picture, the sky was blue and the sun was shining very brightly. Obviously I was trying to capture the setting and images on my camera – but I knew the pictures would never do it justice. It was simply breathtaking and whilst I had longed for this moment when planning my trip, never could I have imagined how beautiful an experience it would be.

I walked around a little on the rocks and pebbles – looking at some of the wonderful and intriguing rocks – but my eyes kept returning to the overall picture. I did not – and could not leave. It was the perfect picture for me – but sadly, I realised I would have to.

Eventually, I took one last look around, closed my eyes, turned round so I was facing the rest of the island – and never looked back.

I started to walk back towards the town, stopping periodically to walk down to the rocky Pacific Ocean side. I saw some pools of seawater trapped in some of the rocks – that had numerous little fish swimming about of various colours. Again, many of the locals greeted me or chatted to me – and I felt really at home on ‘my desert island’.

Once I got back near town, I continued to walk on the beach at the lagoon side. I saw a man (not too young may I add) that was busy digging the sand with a large shovel and piling it to one side. I watched a little curiously and he saw me and greeted me. We chatted, and he told me how he did this each day – and was building a sand barricade at the bottom of his ‘garden’ where it met the beach – hopefully that it would keep the sea at bay as global warming could likely wash his (and many more – obviously) house away. He wasn’t the only one that had expressed their concerns and worries to me about the effects global warming could have on these islands – especially as the highest elevation was less than 5 metres above sea level.

I called back to the lodge, collected my beach things and headed back to enjoy the late afternoon sun – and await the sun setting over the sea. Again it was a time to take many photographs as the sun and occasional clouds produced special images in the sky.

I returned to the lodge, chatted with David a while before heading out for a meal. David had told me of a place that served fish and chips – which I intended to go to. However, once I told him he admitted he was wrong and it was chicken and chips! Still, I fancied fish – and I had seen what I believed to be a restaurant near one of the shops we had visited in the morning.

I soon found the restaurant again and as I entered there was a large print on the wall depicting around 25 different fish found in the waters around Tuvalu. It appeared it was another Chinese restaurant – however I entered, was invite to sit down and given a menu. The only fish dish on the menu was fish curry – so I ordered it. 

“No fish” was the response I got – thinking… the place is surrounded by it! I ordered beef – realising I had not seen a cow on Tuvalu!

I had a last walk around in the dark before heading back to the lodge to prepare for the next day – when I would be returning to ‘normal’ life.

Tuesday 19/June/2018

I awoke knowing I was only hours away from leaving my ‘paradise’. I had my last breakfast, finished packing, had final chats with the host before David (who was also catching the same flight back – the first flight since we arrived) and myself were taken to the airport. There, we both checked in and were given our hand written boarding cards but were then free to spend the next hour doing whatever we wanted. David and I went to the post office to see the famous stamp collection it has. I recalled TripAdvisor had just four things to do on Tuvalu – and this was the main attraction

David then went to say farewell to a local he had befriended whilst I wanted a final walk round. I went back near the airport and walked onto the runway watching two men with sweeping brush and shovel collecting any debris or rubbish off the airstrip

It was an ideal time too, to reflect on my travels there.

It was a strange feeling being ‘trapped on a small island’ – something that few of us have experienced

Whilst there was little to do (apart from walk and chat to the locals) I had really enjoyed my time there. I had loved the peace, quiet, solitude and time to think about several things without distractions. The people had been amazingly friendly, warm and kind. Life on Tuvalu too – was very different from any that I had encountered anywhere else in the world. The people were a very close and loving community. These people probably didn’t realise it and probably wouldn’t understand it – but they had a special way of life.

Sadly, I knew it was hard in many ways for them. There were few – if any – luxuries. They appeared to spend much of their lives watching TV and sleeping and the only work for most of them was doing small improvements to their very basic ‘housing’ and other housekeeping duties. – but there was a lot of me that admired and envied them!

Sadly the time was fast approaching where I would be returning to a more normal way of life that I would be used to. A fire engine appeared at the side of the runway and a large siren filled the air – to warn everyone of the impending flight in. This occurred twice over around 15 minutes – but the third blasting of the siren was met within a minute of our plane coming in to land.

Surprisingly, our departing flight was delayed by around an hour, why?… I don’t know (they said it was due to special reasons!) but at least it wasn’t due to Air Traffic Control trying to find a time slot for us nor delays getting all the passengers on (I counted only 22 passengers on a plane that held 80)

Eventually we took off and the images of the island I had seen arriving in Tuvalu were there as I departed. Images that would always be with me.